Nothing compares to a motorcycle ride on a wide open road. The most popular type of motorised mobility is the motorbike or 2-wheel scooter for the majority of the world. There are over 200 million motorbikes in use globally (as opposed to almost 600 million cars), and nearly 60% of these are in Asia and the Far East. Over 35 million motorcycles and motorised scooters are in use in China and India alone. Compare this to the United States, where automobiles predominate (approximately 30% of all cars worldwide are produced here). For more details motorcycle information

Although we aren’t specialists on the role that motorbikes play in the cultures of these other nations, it is clear that the motorcycle occupies a special place in American pop culture. With films like Easy Rider and Hunter S. Thompson’s book about the Hells Angels motorcycle gang in the middle of the 1960s, this place became firmly established. Harley-sales Davidson’s are boosted by their distinctive marketing strategy that emphasises how motorcycles seem and feel when riding on open roads. Harley even secured a patent for the precise sound of their motor. Beyond Harley Davidson, there are already 1 million motorcycles sold annually in the US. Nowadays, a lot of people drive on open roads and experience the wind in their faces.

Although they are enjoyable to ride and fuel-efficient, motorbikes and scooters are not always inexpensive. Luxury motorcycles like a Harley can easily match the price of a brand-new automobile. That much money was spent on two wheels. Therefore, whether you own a motorcycle or scooter, it’s crucial to care for your purchase so that it will enable you to ride for many years to come.

This article offers professional guidance on how to take care of your bike and maintain it for as long as possible. It includes advice and recommendations from experts. We will discuss the bike’s components that require regular repair and why. We’ll discuss using the proper fuels and storing your bike.

THE ESSENTIAL MANUAL FOR SUCCESS IS YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL

To be perfectly honest, paying attention to the owner’s manual undervalues its importance in ensuring a successful and extended motorbike ownership experience (and your car, too). But there is a reason why owner’s manuals are written. You can find the manufacturer’s best recommendations on crucial topics like

What has to be fixed, how often, and when should the service be scheduled

The kind of oil and vital fluids your bike needs

Any additional steps you may do on your own to keep your bicycle in top condition

There are “full service” manuals that, essentially, tell a mechanic everything they need to know to rebuild the entire bike from scratch, down to such esoteric information as how many pounds of force to tighten a bolt on the bike, for those of us who are heavily into DIY and more mechanically inclined.

You need a copy of your owner’s handbook, and you should frequently refer to it, whether you’re one of those gearheads or just an average cyclist who wants to keep your bike in top condition. The expense will be worthwhile.

CALENDAR OF PROPER MAINTENANCE

Motorcycle manufacturers advise servicing them at predetermined distances or intervals of time. The owner’s manual includes a list of recommended maintenance intervals to assist owners and technicians in creating a realistic and suitable maintenance schedule. If properly maintained, the majority of motorcycles produced after 1980 are pretty dependable. The high reliability of today’s motorcycles has, in some ways, worked against many riders. Some riders have been led to believe that motorcycles are low maintenance and similar to modern cars. Though they still need a lot more maintenance than a car, modern bikes require less upkeep than they did in the 1960s and 1970s.

BREAK-IN OF YOUR BIKE FROM NEW

When you spend the money to purchase a new cycle, you undoubtedly want it to have a successful life. This means that you must properly “break it in.” This will shield your bike from future issues. The manufacturer’s instructions for your bike, which may be found in your manual, will specify exactly what you need to do in this regard. It could range from simple and straightforward break-in protocols that involve riding the bike at specific speeds and engine RPMs for specific periods of time to more complex and involved break-in protocols that may change and morph from doing one thing during the first few hundred miles to doing another for the following thousand.

What you should do is whatever your owner’s manual instructs. And you must take action. You’ll avoid future hassles by doing this. You already have enough headaches in life; spare yourself one more from not adhering to these recommendations.

THE ESSENTIAL STEP IN AN OIL CHANGE

The idea that changing your oil according to the advised standards is the single finest thing you can do for any engine on any type of vehicle should be well-known to you. Motorcycles are definitely included in this.

Motorcycle engines often operate at faster speeds and RPMs than those of cars and trucks, making frequent oil changes equally critical. Your owner’s manual will provide the best advice on the recommended oil type. Additionally, it will specify how frequently you should replace it. At your peril, disregard these instructions.

If you let your oil go too long between changes, it won’t do its job of adequately preventing wear on the metal components. Keep in mind that oil contains additives, including acid neutralizers, that are designed to prevent the buildup of detrimental pollutants and combustion products on the engine surfaces (like soot and acid). As a result, if you go too long between oil changes, these additives will lose their effectiveness and quit defending the engine.

On the other hand, if you replace your oil too frequently, you’ll be throwing money away. If you wanted to “be safe,” you could replace your oil every 500 miles, but what would be the point? Being overly cautious will only result in money being wasted.

REPAIR OF AIR FILTER

An internal combustion engine needs a steady flow of air intake to supply the oxygen required to support fuel combustion. A clean air filter is essential for preventing your engine’s intake air from containing pollutants and other elements that could harm it. As they serve as abrasives and harm the valves, cylinder, and internal bearings, dust, filth, and other environmental irritants can become trapped in the oil coating or on metal surfaces.

This can be avoided by cleaning the air filter or replacing it. The frequency of this is specified in your owner’s manual (there it is again). If you ride your motorcycle frequently in dusty settings, it’s also a good idea to increase how often you change the filter. It goes without saying that a dusty environment accelerates the rate at which your filter becomes extremely clogged and dirty.

Finally, having a clean air filter helps improve your fuel economy. Everyone enjoys the perk that is this. Although it won’t increase your mileage by 20% or something like that, you will usually receive a modest mileage benefit for performing this maintenance with care.

RIDE UNDER FORCE

The right tyre pressure can mean the difference between riding efficiently and saving money and petrol. The points of contact you have with the road are called tyres, and they have a huge impact on how you ride. When your tyres are inflated properly, your fuel economy remains high and your bike handles the best. Too little tyre pressure results in too much of the tire’s surface making contact with the road at once. This results in excessive drag and reduces your fuel efficiency. Additionally, it accelerates tyre wear by applying pressure on the side walls of the tyres. So be careful not to ride too low. However, avoid increasing the tyre pressure excessively. It is accurate to say that increased tyre pressure increases mileage. Go too far in this manner, however, and you won’t have the finest traction in slick conditions, which is plainly dangerous (some people believe that if a little of something is excellent, a lot of it must be wonderful). Additionally, overinflated tyres deteriorate more quickly, but this time in the centre of the tread rather than the edges.

Simply use a gauge to check your tyre pressure once a week; it’s not rocket science.

Check your suspension parts and keep your bearings greased.

Since dirt bikes require a lot of oil practically from the moment they are acquired, owners of dirt bikes are already accustomed to the practise of lubricating wheel bearings. Compared to dirt bikes, street bikes don’t have as many exposed bearings, but they still need plenty of grease in places like the suspension links. These exposed parts will last longer if they are checked often and greased.

Any proper maintenance regimen should include examining the condition of critical bearings for wear indicators. This is necessary since these bearings wear out quickly once they begin to fail. Check the steering stem bearings (raise the front wheels off the ground on a stand and check the feel of the turn). During this check, any strange sensation or excessive loose play may indicate that these bearings need to be changed.

Check the swing arm on your bike. The pivot point must be tightly spaced and free from side-to-side movement. The front and rear axles are the same. These bearings need to be replaced if there is any play in these places.

In conclusion, regularly inspect all of your nuts and bearings. When you reinstall your bolts, apply anti-seize coating and grease them frequently to prolong their lifespan (swing arm, linkage, motor mount). Paying attention to these crucial components will stop larger problems from developing later.

SEEKING OUT YOUR DRIVETRAIN

Clean air filters and clean oil have already been mentioned as crucial to the health of your bike. The chain, belt, or shaft that allows your transmission to drive your bike’s wheel is another crucial component that interacts with these other parts and is known as the drive train. Depending on the type of bike you own, you may have one of these.

It’s simple to maintain the health of your drivetrain, but it’s crucial to do so. Check the condition of your sprockets and chain. Make sure your belt is intact and free of fractures. Every so often, check the shaft housing and add oil to it. Observation is basically all that needs to be done to maintain this crucial area to make sure the lubrication is sufficient. Do not disregard this. If your drive train is broken, you cannot move.

BANDWIDTH CHARGE

Whether your battery is dead, it doesn’t matter if your drive train is in fine shape—you won’t move. Since batteries degrade gradually at first, it is up to you to extend their lifespan as much as possible. A sealed battery or an exposed battery are the two options available to you. You must periodically examine the liquid solution inside exposed batteries. Add more solution if it starts to go too low. This prevents the interior plates from being visible and prematurely depleting the battery. This won’t be a problem if you use a sealed battery.

DRIVING SAFELY

Beyond the straightforward steps listed above, how you ride the bike also significantly affects how long it lasts. It’s unlikely that a driver’s clutch, brakes, or transmission will last very long if they screech their tyres, pop their clutch, and slam on their brakes. Instead, they’ll likely be spending a lot of time with their friendly neighbourhood mechanic. The same is true with riding a motorcycle. Your transmission will get quite worn down pretty soon if you ride the bike roughly, don’t feather the clutch while shifting, or don’t back off the throttle at the appropriate moment. Similarly, controlled acceleration and deceleration also aid and will keep you out of the repair shop for much longer lengths of time. These days, there are enough things to spend money on without wasting it on things that are essentially bike parts.

ESSENTIAL STEPS FOR MAINTENANCE OF THE FUEL SYSTEM

The fuel system is a crucial internal component that makes sure your motorcycle receives the fuel it needs to function optimally, getting it to the right place in the right amount. The fuel system needs some maintenance, much like other components of the bike, but it doesn’t have to be tough or labor-intensive; it’s more preventive in nature.

Choosing the proper fuel

As a form of motorcycle preventive maintenance, fuel is frequently forgotten. The fuel filter should always be taken into account when discussing gasoline and fuel systems. If you have a fuel filter, it’s a good idea to frequently check it to make sure it is clear, clean, and not clogged. Gasoline filters should be changed every two years, or sooner if there are any indications that the fuel may be polluted. While you’re at it, look for weather damage and cracks in the bike’s gasoline lines. Immediately replace these lines if any damage is discovered.

Normally, untreated gasoline keeps its best combustion quality in storage for around six months; if the gasoline contains ethanol, this time period is significantly shorter. Exposure to air, light, and water buildup from the environment all contribute to the degradation of gasoline fuels. Fuel undergoes chemical reactions (oxidation) when exposed to air and light, resulting in discoloured fuel with dark deposits accumulating at the bottom of the gas can or storage tank. In hot conditions, these processes take place more quickly.

Water from the air gets drawn into ethanol fuel, which is another problem. This is because ethanol itself is chemical in nature. The dissolved ethanol may begin to phase separate when enough water has been absorbed, which is a process known as “phase separation.” Free ethanol mixes with the water in the tank’s bottom and sinks there (because water and ethanol is heavier than gas). When this occurs, you may encounter issues that are best avoided, such as gasoline that has lost its octane rating or a fuel line that is sucking up a water/ethanol mixture instead of gasoline.

The best approach to avoid these storage issues is to add an additive to the fuel. However, any fuel additive must be added when the gasoline is in good condition in order to be effective. At that point, the gasoline must be abandoned because there are no remedies available on the market to bring it back to good condition. If degraded gasoline is consumed in your engine, it could, at best, lead to subpar performance and, at worst, catastrophic engine damage. A decent fuel additive treatment can extend the shelf life of gasoline by two or three times and can improve your motorcycle’s performance.

Additionally, the ethanol present in the majority of on-road fuel is extremely corrosive and will eventually melt the aluminium in your carburetor. The carburetor and other fuel system components should be coated and shielded from this process by a good fuel additive combined with the gasoline. When storing your bike for an extended period of time, this is crucial.

When your bike is stationary, it burns through your reserve.

Also keep in mind to turn the petcock to the off position when leaving your motorcycle parked for any period of time. By doing this, any fuel that would leak or flood the carburetor is avoided. When you switch the petcock setting from “Normal” to “Reserve,” gasoline is brought in from a different area of the gas tank, usually from the bottom. This area of the tank’s gas is more likely to include phase-separated gasoline, which has larger amounts of ethanol, water, and other foreign substances that might have collected over time. This has the potential to cause your motorcycle to abruptly halt the first time you use your reserve fuel because tainted fuel would be pulled into the carburetor or fuel injection system. Riding occasionally on the reserve setting with a full tank of gas is an excellent preventive measure for this issue. The proportion of tainted fuel to clean fuel will be so low as to not pose a significant issue. If there is bad gas in the reserve, you are more likely to burn it off without too many issues. Additionally, it guarantees that your reserve will function well on the day you need it.

STORAGE FOR YOUR BIKE

When getting ready to store a motorcycle for a long time, there are a few things you should do to lower the likelihood of storage-related issues. Before you put the cycle away for storage, you might want to consider the following items. By doing this, you can be sure that your motorcycle won’t have any issues and will be ready to ride when the next riding season starts:

Oil and filter should be changed.

To prevent the cooling system’s components from freezing, if the motorcycle is liquid-cooled, make sure the cooling system is half-filled with antifreeze.

Gasoline and a fuel stabiliser should be added to your fuel tank. There are several options for this, some of which are superior than others. With the help of a good fuel additive, you may avoid ethanol-related fuel system corrosion and fuel degradation during storage.

If at all possible, drain the carburetor. If not, shut off the fuel petcock and run the engine until it runs out of fuel and shuts off.

Remove the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of clean engine oil into each cylinder to avoid corrosion. Turn the engine over a few times while covering the spark plug holes with a piece of cloth to distribute the oil and coat the cylinder walls. After finishing this procedure, swap out the spark plugs.

Remove the battery, make sure it is completely charged, and keep it somewhere that won’t freeze. To keep the battery from discharging and sulfating while it is in storage, you should charge it slowly once a month.

You should oil the drive chain if the motorcycle has one to stop it from rusting.

To avoid sidewall cracks or flat areas, inflate the tyres to the factory-recommended pressure.

All painted and chrome parts should be washed and waxed.

To prevent grit and dust from adhering to the paint and leading to a scratched finish, cover the motorcycle. In order to prevent moisture from condensing on the cover or the painted or chrome surfaces, it is also advised to use a cloth cover. If you want to modify your bike , please click here motorcycle modification